Though this wine looks restrained, with its pale straw-inflected, water-white appearance, its nose leaps out of the glass. It smells of hay, gooseberry and lime pulp. As the wine warms up, a noticeable and somewhat unusual grapiness comes forward. The palate is likewise generous in similar flavors, and it’s also layered with texture. There’s a distinct pithiness that isn’t drying, and there’s a saline quality that is sure to enhance delicate foods. Zesty acidity frames the light body with perfection. Enjoy this bottling’s youthful exuberance now through 2016.

— Published (7/30/2015)