This wine looks like a black hole rimmed with purple. The nose smells of graphite, freshly-laid asphalt and creosote—intriguing if not exactly inviting to sip. The palate tastes like a briar patch, and it feels a bit like one, too. The tannins are choppy and sticky, but the acidity is nicely integrated. The finish is medium in length but a bit short on fruit, with oak spice taking the lead. It needs food and could use a bit more fruit focus for better balance. Perhaps it’s just the timing in its drinking cycle try after 2016.

— Published (2/29/2016)