This dark wine with a tiny brick rim smells of Barolo Chinato, root beer and a mixture of fresh and dried blackberries. Earthy with a pleasant touch of funk on the palate, this is a full-bodied and buxom wine that knows how to throw around its weight to get attention. Nonetheless, the tannins are round, ripe and gentle, and the acidity is supporting. All the structural elements are smartly integrated. It drinks well enough now, and with its moderate complexity there’s little benefit to waiting, so enjoy now through 2017.

— Published (2/29/2016)