Black strokes seem to be brushed into this wine’s dark red core. The nose is initially meaty, with crunchy blackberries to support, but it isn’t very giving otherwise. The palate has masses of cracked peppercorns and hung game funk. It’s an individual wine that is sure to be polarizing. Medium-bodied with moderately tugging tannins and integrated medium acidity, there’s intrigue here, but tertiary flavors are coming on strong, so drink up now through 2017.

— Published (2/29/2016)