Forebodingly jet black, this wine smells of creosote, peat fire and licorice. The palate is more giving with fruit, showing black plum skin, ripe blackberries and cassis as well as North African spices. There’s a pleasant savoriness and gaminess to the whole package. The lingering finish shows lots of layers but no evident oakiness. Bright acidity lifts the full body, aided by the pleasantly grainy tannins. This isn’t a fruit blockbuster, and that’s quite a lovely change. While this will showcase best at the table, it drinks nicely on its own, too. Enjoy now through 2019.

— Published (5/19/2016)