This dark, umbral wine is reserved on the nose, showing only nuances of iron and dried beef. The taste is more forthcoming, with notes of mulch, licorice and ripe blackberries. The palate is nicely integrated, with a touch of acidic tang and streamlined, dusty-textured tannins keeping the pleasant, mouthcoating extraction in check. It is a chunky, densely flavored, somewhat exotic and pure wine that has the potential to please all crowds. There’s minerality for the Old World school and fruit for the New World kids. Moreover, there’s tremendous fresh fruit concentration and a nicely lingering finish. Drink now–2020.

— Published (2/8/2017)