Nontransparent black core with deep mulberry rim. Nonfruit notes dominate the nose: tar, diesel fuel and charred lamb kebabs. Marked acidity and somewhat coarse tannins structure the wine and give it gripping texture. No evident new oak surfaces on the palate, where cassis and baked blackberries emerge. Full-bodied but very well balanced. Medium finish. Boisterous and youthful. Drink now to 2017 and may hold well for longer.

— Published (8/27/2012)