This glass-staining wine has a miniscule, deep magenta rim. It’s sexy, in an oak-forward way, with gobs of sweet spice, cracked black pepper, licorice, oil-cured olive, black plum, cassis and fresh black fig. It’s solidly concentrated and focused, with compelling diversity and a medium-length finish. Though generous, the sculpted tannins are relatively soft, and the roaring but well-placed acidity is the structuring element of this wine. It likely won’t make old bones, but it is smarty executed, serious and concentrated. Drink now–2021.

— Published (4/26/2017)