Dark as a beetle’s shell, this wine comes out swinging with everything but fruit, doling out creosote, mulch, licorice and cola. Round and ample, the palate is full in body and the alcohol is a touch heady. Vigorously dry tannins lead the way, soaking out every last whisper of moisture from the palate. In contrast, the acidity is bright but very well integrated. The medium finish and diverse flavor spectrum suggest this wine has time to go, even if the tannins never resolve. Perfect for game and sausages. Drink now-2023.

— Published (2/6/2020)