Pale yellow in color, this has a reticent nose—thanks to prominent reduction—with paraffin, dried herb blend and old lemon aromas. Zippy on the attack, this has perky—almost pungent—acidity, lightly drying tannins and a salty finish. The palate flavors include toasted phyllo dough, Marcona almond, tingly yellow grapefruit and a hint of broth. Lively and concentrated yet still finessed, this is a true delight to taste and can accompany many finessed dishes. Drink now to harness its exuberance, but this should last another three to four years.

— Published (3/16/2023)