The impenetrable, black color is followed by a stubborn nose showing nothing more than mineral notes. Gamy and savory top notes dominate the palate with slate, licorice, earth, rosemary and black-plum skin flavors. There is a feisty mouthfeel of leathery tannins and bright acidity. Clearly a food wine for hearty, winter dishes or barbecued meats in the prime summer months, it should drink well through 2013.

— Published (3/14/2013)