Built like a brick house, this wine has structure and presence that can’t be ignored. Underripe Anjou pear and herbs come through on palate, with sprinklings of chervil, eucalyptus, tarragon and parsley. Menthol dominates the finish and the freshness of acidity is surprisingly prominent. The texture is creamy and viscous, but balanced, and the wine evolves as it opens up.

— Published (1/30/2024)