Deep and inky with vague red brick nuances, this wine smells of barbecue char, fallen leaves, peat and lilac. Powerful in body with serious alcohol, generous viscosity and a mouthcoating texture, it’s far from saintly. Advancing quite quickly now that it is older, the fruit is fading fast, accentuating the supergrippy tannins. Luckily, the well-integrated acidity doesn’t further heighten the wine’s more palate-stripping qualities. Drink now through 2016.

— Published (6/16/2014)