This wine’s saturated but clear core approaches black. Though youthful, its aromas are reticent. Charcoal, grilled beef and Damson plum come through with air. Mouthcoating and full bodied, this wine has an air of decadence about it, but its earthiness and savoriness show it also has a sense of place. Powdery tannins and medium acidity smartly balance the high alcohol. There’s a dusting of cocoa and a whiff of vanilla, but otherwise, there is no obvious oak influence. Drink now through 2018.

— Published (6/16/2014)