Opaque in color with purple nuances, this wine looks both youthful and serious. The nose smells of amaro-like bitter herbs, black-plum skin and ganache. The palate is highly structured between lightly gangly tannins and pronounced acidity. However, there’s just the right amount of full body and glycerol to keep the structure in line. Perhaps even better, it finishes moderately long. Slightly leaning toward the modern camp, it nonetheless has the structure to please Old World fans. Drink now through 2017.

— Published (6/16/2014)