This near-opaque wine shows crimson streaking throughout. The bouquet dances between fresh and advancing, and it’s a compelling show. Dried cranberries, mashed mulberries and fresh blueberries work with sweet spice on the former side while cigar, beef jerky and dried spruce work on the latter. Full bodied but not heavy, this wine has well-executed acidic lift and sophisticated tannins. This wine is at its peak. As its acidity is becoming quite pronounced, don’t delay pouring into a glass.

— Published (6/16/2014)