Deep purple with a black-laced core, this youthful, aromatic bottling is laden with oak aromas. Smoke, bacon drippings, vanilla extract and baking spice lead the way. Mulberries and blueberries follow. Despite the generous attack the wine quickly becomes grippy from stringy, gangly and lightly green tannins. These combine with bracing acidity to counter the light oiliness, but the overall effect is awkward. Nonetheless, the fruit has nice purity, and this wine has a place in casual settings with food. Enjoy now through 2016.

— Published (6/16/2014)