Intimidatingly black throughout, with a miniscule purple rim, this fairly youthful wine is brooding and muscular. It’s full impact on the palate, and the mouthcoating texture is velvety and voluptuous, bordering on custardy. The flavors are driven by sweet spice, mocha, black plum cobbler and black cherry preserves. The tannins initially feel silky, but their classically fine and granular texture surfaces rather quickly. The modest acidity adds some under-the-radar support but cannot manage to lengthen the moderate finish. Enjoy now through 2017.

— Published (6/16/2014)