Opaque and black, save a very tiny magenta rim, this wine looks bold—and it is. Its youthful, pungent smells of forest fruit preserves, black plum skin, damp forest floor and grilled meat are highly enticing. On the palate, the wine shows good purity. It also shows slate, incense, vanilla and maple syrup. Though broad shouldered and dense, it is hardly heavy, thanks to balancing acidity and moderately firm tannins. A smart wine that should make this appellation accessible to a broad range of consumers. Drink now through 2017.

— Published (8/4/2014)