This deeply colored wine with a small fuchsia rim smells as though it is just on the verge of tertiary development. The effusive aromas include boysenberry, cassis, potting soil and mint. The full-flavored palate is delightfully plump, with a touch of mouthcoating viscosity. Lightly drying on the moderate finish, the tannins are smartly managed and not overemphasized by the rather crisp acidity. The deft work here with this typically aggressive variety is quite impressive. Drink now through 2017.

— Published (8/4/2014)