With its black-laced color, this wine’s core is almost impenetrable. The nose is impressively primary, with fresh black currants and berries. Tar, forest floor and cinnamon round out the aromatic edges. The flavors echo the fragrances and linger into a solid, lingering finish. This suavely constructed, lightly rich, full-bodied wine has finessed tannins and good acidic tension. It would seem to be a classic example of a wine that is worth paying just a bit more for in this largely competitive segment. Drink now through 2020.

— Published (8/4/2014)