This wine’s color is an unforgiving black at the core, but at the rim it broadens to a deep cranberry. The nose is quite unforgiving and reticent, remaining somewhat anonymous in black fruits mixed with tar and spice. The palate quickly contrasts the nose with its mature elements. The flavors are clearly tertiary: tobacco, beef jerky and barbecue spice. The fruit has faded. The tannins are firm but suave and the acidity is well integrated. Drink now through 2016.

— Published (6/16/2014)