This wine is rather closed and brooding on the nose, with black flecks in the core. The medium-bodied midpalate is plump and packed with black cherries and loganberries. There are also notes of cracked green peppercorn, aloe and dill that border on offering too much “green-ness.” However, the structure of medium alcohol, svelte tannins and crackling acidity is smartly balanced. The medium-minus finish is pleasantly dry. Best as a food wine, this could also work as a sipper for palates preferring European wines. Drink now through 2017.

— Published (8/4/2014)