This wine’s carbon black core is nuanced by streaks of rust. Its nose is somewhat subdued, but there’s loads of anise, cherry pie filling, charred bacon and loganberry on the palate. The mouthfeel is a bit chunky, with moderate extraction and lightly clunky tannins, but the zippy acidity keeps things hemmed in. Enjoy it for its youthful vibrancy now, though it may evolve well to some benefit considering its generous finish. Drink now through 2017.

— Published (6/11/2015)